Victoria and the Ċittadella
Nearly every bus on Gozo passes through Victoria, which locals still call Rabat, making it a good place to start. The Ċittadella crowns the hill: an Ottoman raid in 1551 carried off almost the entire population into slavery, and the walls you see were strengthened afterwards.
Step into its cathedral and look up. The dome is a painting on a flat ceiling: convincing from the inside, non-existent from the outside.
Temples, salt and cliffs
It all fits into one day if you don't linger; by bus, stick to three stops. To set your own pace, you can also rent a quad on Gozo, as long as you hold a valid driving licence.
- Ġgantija (Xagħra): megalithic temples over 5,000 years old, built from enormous blocks. Legend says a giantess raised them, hence the name.
- Dwejra: cliffs, Fungus Rock and the Inland Sea, a lagoon linked to open water by a tunnel through the rock. This is where the Azure Window stood.
- Xwejni salt pans: grids cut into the limestone near Marsalforn, where salt is still harvested in summer.
- Ramla Bay: the island's big red-sand beach, a good place to end the day with a swim.
Comino beyond the lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is the channel between Comino and the islet of Cominotto: white sand on the bottom, very clear water and, in high season, a lot of people, kiosks and sunbeds squeezed into very little space. There's hardly any beach, and most people end up lying on the rock.
Walk for a while and you'll have the place almost to yourself. A path climbs to St Mary's Tower, built by the Knights in 1618 to guard the channel, with no shade along the way. Bring water and shoes that can handle stones.
Ferry or boat: how to go
The regular ferry takes passengers and cars to Mġarr harbour, where you carry on by bus or taxi. It's the one to pick if you want time at the Ċittadella and the temples, because you choose when to come back. Bad weather can cancel it. That ferry doesn't stop at Comino: small boats cross from Ċirkewwa and Mġarr.
On an organised boat everything's sorted and you see the islands from the water, in exchange for less time on land. There are four formats: Comino Express if you only care about the lagoon; the Comino and Gozo cruise, with snorkelling stops; the full-day trip to Gozo, Comino and the Blue Lagoon; and a private boat for groups. Each product page lists what's included.
