Kinnie, the soda that deserves a second try
On the market since 1952, it's made with bitter oranges and a mix of aromatic herbs. If you know Italian chinotto, you're close; if not, think of tonic water with an orange backbone. It's served ice cold, and if the first one doesn't convince you, try it mixed with rum or vodka before writing it off.
Beer, and wine from native grapes
Cisk has been the go-to lager since 1929: light, easy and on offer at almost any terrace. It's also what you'll see in people's hands at the beach and on party boats.
Local wine surprises people who didn't know it existed. There are vineyards on both islands and two native grapes: Ġellewża, light and fruity, and Girgentina, crisp and often blended with chardonnay. Production is small and these bottles are hard to find abroad, which is a good reason to order them here. DOK on the label signals a controlled origin.
Bajtra, the prickly pear liqueur
Prickly pear cactus lines many of the stone walls in the countryside, and the fruit ripens in late summer. It goes into a sweet, reddish liqueur that some bars also use in spritzes. If you spot the fruit on a wall, don't touch it without gloves: the spines are tiny and hard to get out.
Sweets you'll find all year
Bakeries, pastry shops and street stalls sell all of these, so there's no need to sit down anywhere. For the savoury side of things, start with traditional food.
- Imqaret: pastry diamonds filled with dates, scented with aniseed and fried to order.
- Qagħaq tal-għasel: pastry rings with a dark filling of treacle, citrus and spices. The name means honey rings, but treacle does most of the work.
- Kannoli: crisp pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta, a Sicilian inheritance. Best when filled while you wait.
- Ħelwa tat-Tork: a sesame and sugar paste with whole almonds, from the halva family. It's sold in blocks and travels well.
The ones that follow the calendar
Carnival and Easter move every year, so check the dates if you're coming between February and April. Outside those weeks, you won't see these in shop windows. If you're still picking dates, read when to go.
- Prinjolata (carnival): a mound of sponge and cream, topped with frosting, chocolate, cherries and pine nuts.
- Figolli (Easter): large iced biscuits filled with almond paste, shaped like lambs, fish or hearts, sometimes with a small chocolate egg.
- Imbuljuta tal-qastan (Christmas): a hot chestnut and cocoa soup, traditionally served after midnight Mass.
